As my 620 was functioning as a daily, it was imperative to keep running. As you can see I got a flat a few evenings after the whole jack fiasco of the previous weekend.
AAA came to the rescue and towed me home. I was able to remove the hub cap and the wheel and take it up the street to get plugged for less than 10$.
Back on track.
At this point I sanded down all of the epoxy and smoothed it very well to the surrounding area. I also sanded an area that looked to be scratched from a previous incident a few inches away on the face of firewall just to the left of the transmission tunnel looking forward to aft.
Once I was happy with the surface, I spray painted it clear with many light coats of a high temp automotive paint. As seen in many of my previous repairs, I will usually opt to clear over something rather than mask it, especially if it is not cosmetic, or should I say, not cosmetic in a place that is cosmetic.
These would be the last photos for a long time of this area so I took more than normal to try to get the views. That and I was very impressed with the results. The dent was completely removed, the small tear and holes were completely sealed, the surface transitioned brilliantly and the epoxy was sanded very smooth, all sealed with high temp paint.
Finished and back to more important matters. Instead of continuing the power steering rack lines, I decided to install the motor instead. The rack lines would have to be removed as to not be damaged as they were when the motor came out, and the power steering system would not be filled until after the motor was in the car anyways.
I reused the oem mounts for this, looking back I may have opted to replace them with an aftermarket option. It took a frustratingly long time to get both the mounts lined up enough for the motor to sit in. During this process I had to remove the engine mount from the driver side and managed to hit myself very hard over the bridge of the nose with the end of the breaker bar. It was painful.
I got a bit of a black eye around my nose, and the main break swelled up nicely. There was a smaller secondary cut higher on the nose which I believe was from my glasses flying off my face. The second it happened my legs went limp and my weight rested on the car. I was able to lower myself to the ground without further catastrophe, but I may have blacked out for a split second. It was a hard hit. I contemplated getting stitches but I've always been told that there's an obvious difference between a wound that is gaping and one that is not. Although this was cut to the bone and sliced like a knife from the impact, it was not the former so I simply kept it clean and applied peroxide and neosporin.
Stories.
Against all my efforts, the end of the weekend was a success, with the motor and transmission resting back home in the chassis.
To be clear, the motor is original to the car and is a notchback SR with red painted valve covers, not a "redtop" SR as some may incorrectly assume. This is the same motor that comes in the S15 chassis, except with a few alterations, namely the ball bearing turbo which the previous owner already upgraded to, and the 6 speed transmission. Mine is 5, which I hear may be more stout anyways.
It's been a long f* week. Kart break time.
AAA came to the rescue and towed me home. I was able to remove the hub cap and the wheel and take it up the street to get plugged for less than 10$.
Back on track.
At this point I sanded down all of the epoxy and smoothed it very well to the surrounding area. I also sanded an area that looked to be scratched from a previous incident a few inches away on the face of firewall just to the left of the transmission tunnel looking forward to aft.
Once I was happy with the surface, I spray painted it clear with many light coats of a high temp automotive paint. As seen in many of my previous repairs, I will usually opt to clear over something rather than mask it, especially if it is not cosmetic, or should I say, not cosmetic in a place that is cosmetic.
These would be the last photos for a long time of this area so I took more than normal to try to get the views. That and I was very impressed with the results. The dent was completely removed, the small tear and holes were completely sealed, the surface transitioned brilliantly and the epoxy was sanded very smooth, all sealed with high temp paint.
Finished and back to more important matters. Instead of continuing the power steering rack lines, I decided to install the motor instead. The rack lines would have to be removed as to not be damaged as they were when the motor came out, and the power steering system would not be filled until after the motor was in the car anyways.
I reused the oem mounts for this, looking back I may have opted to replace them with an aftermarket option. It took a frustratingly long time to get both the mounts lined up enough for the motor to sit in. During this process I had to remove the engine mount from the driver side and managed to hit myself very hard over the bridge of the nose with the end of the breaker bar. It was painful.
I got a bit of a black eye around my nose, and the main break swelled up nicely. There was a smaller secondary cut higher on the nose which I believe was from my glasses flying off my face. The second it happened my legs went limp and my weight rested on the car. I was able to lower myself to the ground without further catastrophe, but I may have blacked out for a split second. It was a hard hit. I contemplated getting stitches but I've always been told that there's an obvious difference between a wound that is gaping and one that is not. Although this was cut to the bone and sliced like a knife from the impact, it was not the former so I simply kept it clean and applied peroxide and neosporin.
Getting punched in the face with a hand tool is never enjoyable, the culprit being the end of a 3 foot, 1/2" driver. There was a bit of bruising and tearing above the main cut, but it healed very well.
Stories.
Against all my efforts, the end of the weekend was a success, with the motor and transmission resting back home in the chassis.
To be clear, the motor is original to the car and is a notchback SR with red painted valve covers, not a "redtop" SR as some may incorrectly assume. This is the same motor that comes in the S15 chassis, except with a few alterations, namely the ball bearing turbo which the previous owner already upgraded to, and the 6 speed transmission. Mine is 5, which I hear may be more stout anyways.
It's been a long f* week. Kart break time.
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