In an effort to catch up on entries, I may have jumped the gun a bit. These fuel line mod's took place prior to that of the throttle body troubleshooting. This is funny as you would have thought the fuel filter full of debris would have been cleaned out at this point and I wouldn't have had the lack-of-boost issue in the subsequent 3 entries, but no, that would be too easy. I was preoccupied with the fuel leaking out of the tank around the -an bulkhead fittings to start.
To be sure, I also did a lot of work at this point on the fuel pickup, as I thought it had moved somewhere other than the bottom of the tank where it was initially placed. The car ran out of fuel prematurely, as read in the throttle body entries had fuel pressure issues, and as shown by my inability to boost refused to go faster than the soccer mom van.
Maybe the pickup had moved and was sitting flush with the interior bulkhead or rear tank wall. It would be difficult to suck fuel through a flat plate. Maybe the pickup had moved and was sitting as high as the split line of the tank. There's a significant amount of fuel capacity below this line and I didn't want to have a 15 gallon tank, only 5 of which was usable. Maybe the pickup was clogged.
Don't remind me.
Step 1, drain the tank into spare kitty liter bins.
Step 2-7ish, remove tank and place on creeper so it's easy to roll around the garage when it gets in the way of other projects, like the front valence install.
There was a significant amount of fuel leakage from either the return line fitting, the feed line fitting, the fuel lever sender, or a combination of all three. Personally this seemed like less of an issue than the lack of boost, but was probably a good place to start as fuel leaks are never good for anyone. In all actuality it looks much worse than it was. Other than once when I overfilled the tank, there wasn't even a puddle under her.
I removed all the fittings, pickups, pumps, filters, -an lines, and fuel senders.
I sanded the surface around the enlarged oem fuel holes. The panel wasn't flat around the holes and was too much for the sealing washers to seal. Even after sanding significantly, there were still dips on the outside edges of the holes near the fuel sender, again, too much for the sealing washers to seal. I sanded as much as I could while keeping the panel intact and the holes the same contour. I even used a round file to break the edge on the holes. There was still a bit of a burr on each side from the previous holesaw enlarging.
Not anymore.
The idea here is to fill the holes with something.
This may sound better in a minute.
Maybe not.
Either way, this is one of the few acceptable applications of jb weld. The following are required
(2) short -8an lines, or (1) long one that you can conveniently cut into (2), but then a cutter will also be required
(1) package of jb weld, jb quick weld may be quicker, but if you have good (defined as still squeezable) jb weld laying around the garage this is cheaper, although not quicker
(1) piece of card board, the jb weld, or jb quick weld substitute, packaging will probably sufice
(1) stray wire
jb weld to fill and level the fuel line bulkhead face so the sealing washers for the -an fittings will seal.
Cardboard box as mixing tray.
Wire as equal parts mixing and applicator tool, as well as appropriately diameter sized small -an lines as hole fillers.
I lathered as much goop on as I could, filling all the gaps and then some, up to and around the tubes, letting it harden overnight as per the directions. jb weld is never good the second time around, which is why I was so surprised when I found some still squeezable in my garage. This was probably due to the fact it was somehow as yet unopened.
Pull the tubes out.
Sand.
Bam, just remember to vacuum.
To be sure, I also did a lot of work at this point on the fuel pickup, as I thought it had moved somewhere other than the bottom of the tank where it was initially placed. The car ran out of fuel prematurely, as read in the throttle body entries had fuel pressure issues, and as shown by my inability to boost refused to go faster than the soccer mom van.
Maybe the pickup had moved and was sitting flush with the interior bulkhead or rear tank wall. It would be difficult to suck fuel through a flat plate. Maybe the pickup had moved and was sitting as high as the split line of the tank. There's a significant amount of fuel capacity below this line and I didn't want to have a 15 gallon tank, only 5 of which was usable. Maybe the pickup was clogged.
Don't remind me.
Step 1, drain the tank into spare kitty liter bins.
Step 2-7ish, remove tank and place on creeper so it's easy to roll around the garage when it gets in the way of other projects, like the front valence install.
There was a significant amount of fuel leakage from either the return line fitting, the feed line fitting, the fuel lever sender, or a combination of all three. Personally this seemed like less of an issue than the lack of boost, but was probably a good place to start as fuel leaks are never good for anyone. In all actuality it looks much worse than it was. Other than once when I overfilled the tank, there wasn't even a puddle under her.
I removed all the fittings, pickups, pumps, filters, -an lines, and fuel senders.
I sanded the surface around the enlarged oem fuel holes. The panel wasn't flat around the holes and was too much for the sealing washers to seal. Even after sanding significantly, there were still dips on the outside edges of the holes near the fuel sender, again, too much for the sealing washers to seal. I sanded as much as I could while keeping the panel intact and the holes the same contour. I even used a round file to break the edge on the holes. There was still a bit of a burr on each side from the previous holesaw enlarging.
Not anymore.
The idea here is to fill the holes with something.
This may sound better in a minute.
Maybe not.
Either way, this is one of the few acceptable applications of jb weld. The following are required
(2) short -8an lines, or (1) long one that you can conveniently cut into (2), but then a cutter will also be required
(1) package of jb weld, jb quick weld may be quicker, but if you have good (defined as still squeezable) jb weld laying around the garage this is cheaper, although not quicker
(1) piece of card board, the jb weld, or jb quick weld substitute, packaging will probably sufice
(1) stray wire
jb weld to fill and level the fuel line bulkhead face so the sealing washers for the -an fittings will seal.
Cardboard box as mixing tray.
Wire as equal parts mixing and applicator tool, as well as appropriately diameter sized small -an lines as hole fillers.
I lathered as much goop on as I could, filling all the gaps and then some, up to and around the tubes, letting it harden overnight as per the directions. jb weld is never good the second time around, which is why I was so surprised when I found some still squeezable in my garage. This was probably due to the fact it was somehow as yet unopened.
Pull the tubes out.
Sand.
Bam, just remember to vacuum.
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