exhaust work two

It took a while to get the exhaust installed. It is one piece with two hangers which are extremely difficult to align while being able to fit the exhaust around the other features under the car. One side would fit, causing the other to not. It's similar to solid suspension mounts.

Special thanks goes to KK, help by whom saved countless hours and swearing.

Once installed it was very evident how spot on the fitment was. Everything cleared by fractions of an inch. The flex joint was not pre-stressed as the forward flange was clamped in place. The downpipe was not pulled down by the weight of the exhaust as the flange was at the exact matching angle and location.

The complicated bend and flex cleared the underside, engine frame rails, and transmission with simplistic ease.

The mid section hung JUST under the transmission cradle. This was a slight worry as the hanger came off in transit and was re-tacked upon arrival to the welder's. On top of this, during mock up I estimated the amount of droop, none, of the new, very stiff, rubber isolators with respect to the weight of the exhaust. I also had to eyeball the forward/aft location of the arrow heads so that the rubber isolator would not be pre-stressed during installation either.

The resonator clears the floor pan and driveshaft as close as possible.

The muffler tip sits quietly in the oem rear valence cutout. I use the words muffler tip loosely as it is not really a tip at all, simply the exit tube of the muffler itself without any type of tip attached.

Any bigger and the magnaflow muffler wouldn't fit at this height and angle of rotation between the spare tire well and outside quarter panel.

The rear hanger placed the muffler and tip at the perfect location, not to mention re-angling the entire exhaust, bringing the bend under the rear differential and halfshafts up, much closer to the car. I had to install the rear isolator onto the car and then onto the muffler hanger. I could not tighten it down until the front was installed though, and since it was slightly difficult to access once in place and possibly stuck on the muffler hanger once I attempted it first, I used every extension I had to reach the car side bolt over the rear side of the muffler from the tire well.

The inside, rear part of the muffler itself actually touches spare tire well. I may add some heat/sound/vibration dampening here to protect either surface from wear. Nothing is supported or stuck, however, and the muffler is free to move and doesn't make any noise when driving.

Yes, that's one of the -1o an aeroquip starlite nomex/kevlar braided fuel lines (that doesn't get old, I mean, it's kevlar?!) being used as the driver side fuel tank vent line. Check out the vent lines, muffler, 3" mandrel bent stainless steel tubing, dot slick, coilover, adjustable RLCA's, cv halfshafts, and mustache bar holding a finned lsd, tucked in as unassumingly as possible.

oil returns

When pulling the engine out of the 28o z over a year ago now, I somehow banged the lower fitting on the steering shaft and it broke. 35$ mistake. It is possible that the oil line actually ran around and below the steering shaft and I simply forgot to remove during the install, but that's neither here nor there.

I bought the line into the kitchen for further inspection. At some point I'm going to need to replace this cover, probably sooner rather than later, but with starting the engine impending (at the time), I simply fixed the fitting and re-installed.

New replacement. -1o an, 45* aeroquip socketless hose end, anodized black. Very similar to the fuel lines minus the disassembly, I placed the damaged fitting into the -an jaws and secured the vice.

Ouch.

This is why I bought the set of -an wrenches. 

The outside of the line was fairly corroded.

After cleaning it up it was ready to be installed into the new fitting, without any guide tools or re-cutting, or much blood for that matter.

Old v new fitting with different internal port style. The new aeroquip seemed to be a much better design for various reasons.

Slip, or push and yell and squeeze and shimmy, the stainless steel line into the new outer hose fitting making sure it fully seats on the inside.

Setup the line again in the vice/jaws on the kitchen counter, not forgetting to mark the line so that you can tell if it pushes out during installation.

For some odd reason the -1o an wrench fit over the -an side of the fitting, but not the inner line side. 

As it turns out, the -12 was too big. This was mildly frustrating as I don't remember -11 even being an option in any kit. Either way, I was VERY careful with an adjustable wrench. If you tighten it slowly it'll work just fine, just try to limit the amount of slip and the number of times you have to reset the wrench to avoid marking your recently purchased expensive fitting.

Final product.

More close ups of the old fitting and all the corrosion. I'm glad it broke.

Run downstairs and install, turbo side first.

The oil lines and fitting welded to a bung threaded for the rb block came with my manifold and downpipe set several years ago. Still fits great.

Someone remind me to disconnect the oil return line next time I have to pull the engine. Please.