There's more than several things wrong in this photo, from the fuel line that rubbed on the rim during the first adventure from the garage, to the ziptie now holding it in place and the tape around the fray's, but I'm going to focus on another issue.
The fenders. The tires are obviously a little too close for comfort, shown here by the massive rub on the inner uni-body. To be honest though, it could have been worse. I plan to simply adjust the control arms out a bit, widening the rear track, allowing for some breathing room between the 24o and its rubber.
Here's the passenger rear fender after we tried rolling it with an eastwood roller. It worked pretty well but took a very long time and was not completely effective. The angles were correct, but the lip needed to be completely flush, not only slightly pushed up.
It's difficult to tell in the pictures, but there's a significant amount of body work (bondo/fiberglass/filler) on the outside of the rear fender lines. The underside of the wheel wells, along with the rest of the car, look great. The undercoating in this area could use some sprucing up, but overall I am still impressed. Even where the undercoating chipped off, the body is nice and solid. I'm curious as to why there is body work, and the apparent quantity, on the outside though. Due to the lack of rust anywhere else on the body, there's nothing to tell me that it was to cover a gaping hole, so maybe it was just to make strong lines before paint?
I'm going to stay optimistic until proven otherwise.
Since it was still rubbing after half a day of rolling, I pulled the rear wheels off the next available day and started tapping with a mallet. Since it was started with a true fender roller, and almost completed, the bend was already there. I didn't have to worry about getting an angle of roll incorrect, or trying to find a starting point, which was hard enough with the roller. The mallet merely finished the job, making the lip flush with the inner wheel well to get the most out of the space.
The body work cracked and flaked off in many areas, but I was not too concerned, as again, it needed to be sorted out during paint and body work anyways.
As previously stated, during the last ride the fuel line actually rubbed a bit against the id of the rim. It frayed little spots on the upper and lower loop, but did not harm the inner hose. To keep her on the road I taped the affected areas and loosely tied the line, pulling it more forward, away from the wheel.
Yes, I am going to replace this line, probably cutting it 2x as long so that it can loop inboard to avoid the wheel, and also as important, not have to be tied to something that moves independently of the pump it's attached to, namely the damper.
Trying to stay on track and focus on the completed fender rollings and its cracking body work, here's more photo's.
More of the same on the driver side rear.
Undercoating was in the same shape as the passenger side, no rust, but a re-coat is on the to-do list. I still have a lot left over from when we coated the transmission tunnel.
Done.
Workings.
The fenders. The tires are obviously a little too close for comfort, shown here by the massive rub on the inner uni-body. To be honest though, it could have been worse. I plan to simply adjust the control arms out a bit, widening the rear track, allowing for some breathing room between the 24o and its rubber.
Here's the passenger rear fender after we tried rolling it with an eastwood roller. It worked pretty well but took a very long time and was not completely effective. The angles were correct, but the lip needed to be completely flush, not only slightly pushed up.
It's difficult to tell in the pictures, but there's a significant amount of body work (bondo/fiberglass/filler) on the outside of the rear fender lines. The underside of the wheel wells, along with the rest of the car, look great. The undercoating in this area could use some sprucing up, but overall I am still impressed. Even where the undercoating chipped off, the body is nice and solid. I'm curious as to why there is body work, and the apparent quantity, on the outside though. Due to the lack of rust anywhere else on the body, there's nothing to tell me that it was to cover a gaping hole, so maybe it was just to make strong lines before paint?
I'm going to stay optimistic until proven otherwise.
Since it was still rubbing after half a day of rolling, I pulled the rear wheels off the next available day and started tapping with a mallet. Since it was started with a true fender roller, and almost completed, the bend was already there. I didn't have to worry about getting an angle of roll incorrect, or trying to find a starting point, which was hard enough with the roller. The mallet merely finished the job, making the lip flush with the inner wheel well to get the most out of the space.
The body work cracked and flaked off in many areas, but I was not too concerned, as again, it needed to be sorted out during paint and body work anyways.
As previously stated, during the last ride the fuel line actually rubbed a bit against the id of the rim. It frayed little spots on the upper and lower loop, but did not harm the inner hose. To keep her on the road I taped the affected areas and loosely tied the line, pulling it more forward, away from the wheel.
Yes, I am going to replace this line, probably cutting it 2x as long so that it can loop inboard to avoid the wheel, and also as important, not have to be tied to something that moves independently of the pump it's attached to, namely the damper.
Trying to stay on track and focus on the completed fender rollings and its cracking body work, here's more photo's.
More of the same on the driver side rear.
Undercoating was in the same shape as the passenger side, no rust, but a re-coat is on the to-do list. I still have a lot left over from when we coated the transmission tunnel.
Done.
Workings.
