To keep things rolling, here's the late night story of most of the hydraulics on my car. To start, the clutch master that was on the 24o when bought seemed to be brand new, as well as the brake master for that matter. I had issues with the oem clutch master though on the 28o when it was used with the rb25 transmission and nismo slave cylinder. To be frank, I lost second gear entirely, resulting in an interesting ride home and a replacement neo transmission swap the following weekend.
I obviously didn't want to go through that again, even through the master looked nice and pretty, but I wanted to install the larger one with all the recommended parts which it was designed for. When I installed it in the 28o, I swapped out the push rod so that it would be compatible with the metric thread on the pedal. It was shorter though and I always thought it could use to be longer for adjustability and mechanical advantage. I actually have a larger master than slave to help reduce the pedal pressure required for the 4 puck clutch. It is sprung but that doesn't seem to help much in stop and go traffic. ON .... OFF.
This does mean bleeding can be entertaining as the master is large enough and able to actually push the rod out of the slave entirely. No, there is no lock pin. Ask me how I know that.
I kept the aftermarket push rod, and after all this time, at least 5 moves and 3 states, I was able to locate it in a bin in my garage. Amazing.
I swapped out the new one and got a standard sized threaded nut for it to lock to the pedal threading with, as well as a tap in order to open up the pedal side fork. Sorry I didn't get any before pic's, but the oem rod that I removed is the same diameter, about 1/2 shorter than the one designed for use with the 7/8's clutch master. They swap out easily. These were the after shots, and the threads are close enough that a matched tap will mate them perfectly, using a nut to lock the push rod to the fork which pin's to the pedal.
Here's the oem, new looking master still in the car before swapping it out. Note how the clutch line runs.
Pulled the clutch master cylinder and clutch fork and pin. It's a 5/8's diameter that I'll be replacing with the 7/8's above.
Tap out the threads of the oem clutch fork using a matching tap for the new clutch push rod. The fork is threaded metric, same diameter as the new one, so it's not that drastic, just enough for the rod to be able to thread in and for the nut to lock against the fork.
The boot is a bit torn from being clamped down and cut by the 28o firewall hole, but still attached. The master is still very new and the boot not sealing any fluid, not that it was designed for that in the first place, only protecting from dust entering the chamber. Once it is installed it will be sealed against the firewall anyways and isn't going anywhere.
I was careful and used a true tube bender to orient the line so that it would attach to the back end of the wilwood master, instead of the side as oem.
Installed, the first time of the day.
Taking a break from the front, I inspected the back as I saw a quarter sized spot of fluid on the ground in the vicinity. It turned out to be fresh differential fluid leaking from the driverside cv halfshaft input. I'll keep an eye on it, but it's almost like it's just leaking excess. Hopefully I don't have to go back and replace a seal in this area as it took a long time to get the entire rear suspension installed and something like this may warrant pulling it all back out again.
To report back, after driving the car for about 2oo miles or so, it's not leaking.
Back to the front of the car, I tried out this fluid pump with discouraging results. Don't bother, it was easier to bleed the clutch the normal way, and it's cheaper for a six pack of beer for your friend than it is to make a mess AND try using a 6o$ contraption. Good thing it was a rental.
As it turns out, the joint between the master and brake line leaked significantly. I tried tightening it down and ended up stripping the brake line side of the fitting. It ended up completely seizing to the wilwood side as well, and I could not detach it, not even with vice grips.
I cut the fitting in two with a dremel cutoff wheel. This was frustrating as it meant that i would have to buy a new wilwood fitting, somewhere, a new brake line side fitting, and rent a flaring tool to cut and re-flare the end of the line itself, assuming it wasn't too short already.
Wow. That's mildly impressive. At first I thought it may have been cross-threaded, but looking back on it, just like the clutch fork instance, I've concluded that the brake line fitting was metric and the wilwood side standard.
After a few trips to various auto parts sorts, I finally found the correct threaded adapter (3/8-24 M to 3/8-24 F inverted F, which is not the box above in case anyone's wondering). Like I said, it took a few trips. On the first trip, I also picked up a standard double flaring tool kit.
Back in the garage, I took the dremel and cleaned up the end of the brake line, also uninstalling the master cylinder again to make room to flare the brake line and clean out the entire area.
It was a mess.
All cleaned, and now I have a half metric, half standard clutch master hard line, routed with all the oem mounts, adapting a wilwood 7/8" master with the correct push rod, to a nismo 3/4" slave. Bam.
I had to straighten out the tube, with the bender, in order to be able to flare it and install the new, standard (?!?) fitting. It was pretty difficult to be able to flare the end, bend it back to the same position, and be able to push the fitting into place over the new radius. It was a combination of bending over the fitting, and pulling it towards the flare all at the same time.
Take my word for it, it installed just as it did above, just without leaking this time. And watch out for the wolf spiders.
Fluid seems to always everywhere no matter how careful you are during bleedings, but pulling out a full master cylinder after pulling all the lines is never a good thing.
I obviously didn't want to go through that again, even through the master looked nice and pretty, but I wanted to install the larger one with all the recommended parts which it was designed for. When I installed it in the 28o, I swapped out the push rod so that it would be compatible with the metric thread on the pedal. It was shorter though and I always thought it could use to be longer for adjustability and mechanical advantage. I actually have a larger master than slave to help reduce the pedal pressure required for the 4 puck clutch. It is sprung but that doesn't seem to help much in stop and go traffic. ON .... OFF.
This does mean bleeding can be entertaining as the master is large enough and able to actually push the rod out of the slave entirely. No, there is no lock pin. Ask me how I know that.
I kept the aftermarket push rod, and after all this time, at least 5 moves and 3 states, I was able to locate it in a bin in my garage. Amazing.
I swapped out the new one and got a standard sized threaded nut for it to lock to the pedal threading with, as well as a tap in order to open up the pedal side fork. Sorry I didn't get any before pic's, but the oem rod that I removed is the same diameter, about 1/2 shorter than the one designed for use with the 7/8's clutch master. They swap out easily. These were the after shots, and the threads are close enough that a matched tap will mate them perfectly, using a nut to lock the push rod to the fork which pin's to the pedal.
Here's the oem, new looking master still in the car before swapping it out. Note how the clutch line runs.
Pulled the clutch master cylinder and clutch fork and pin. It's a 5/8's diameter that I'll be replacing with the 7/8's above.
Tap out the threads of the oem clutch fork using a matching tap for the new clutch push rod. The fork is threaded metric, same diameter as the new one, so it's not that drastic, just enough for the rod to be able to thread in and for the nut to lock against the fork.
The boot is a bit torn from being clamped down and cut by the 28o firewall hole, but still attached. The master is still very new and the boot not sealing any fluid, not that it was designed for that in the first place, only protecting from dust entering the chamber. Once it is installed it will be sealed against the firewall anyways and isn't going anywhere.
I was careful and used a true tube bender to orient the line so that it would attach to the back end of the wilwood master, instead of the side as oem.
Installed, the first time of the day.
Taking a break from the front, I inspected the back as I saw a quarter sized spot of fluid on the ground in the vicinity. It turned out to be fresh differential fluid leaking from the driverside cv halfshaft input. I'll keep an eye on it, but it's almost like it's just leaking excess. Hopefully I don't have to go back and replace a seal in this area as it took a long time to get the entire rear suspension installed and something like this may warrant pulling it all back out again.
To report back, after driving the car for about 2oo miles or so, it's not leaking.
Back to the front of the car, I tried out this fluid pump with discouraging results. Don't bother, it was easier to bleed the clutch the normal way, and it's cheaper for a six pack of beer for your friend than it is to make a mess AND try using a 6o$ contraption. Good thing it was a rental.
As it turns out, the joint between the master and brake line leaked significantly. I tried tightening it down and ended up stripping the brake line side of the fitting. It ended up completely seizing to the wilwood side as well, and I could not detach it, not even with vice grips.
I cut the fitting in two with a dremel cutoff wheel. This was frustrating as it meant that i would have to buy a new wilwood fitting, somewhere, a new brake line side fitting, and rent a flaring tool to cut and re-flare the end of the line itself, assuming it wasn't too short already.
Wow. That's mildly impressive. At first I thought it may have been cross-threaded, but looking back on it, just like the clutch fork instance, I've concluded that the brake line fitting was metric and the wilwood side standard.
After a few trips to various auto parts sorts, I finally found the correct threaded adapter (3/8-24 M to 3/8-24 F inverted F, which is not the box above in case anyone's wondering). Like I said, it took a few trips. On the first trip, I also picked up a standard double flaring tool kit.
Back in the garage, I took the dremel and cleaned up the end of the brake line, also uninstalling the master cylinder again to make room to flare the brake line and clean out the entire area.
It was a mess.
All cleaned, and now I have a half metric, half standard clutch master hard line, routed with all the oem mounts, adapting a wilwood 7/8" master with the correct push rod, to a nismo 3/4" slave. Bam.
I had to straighten out the tube, with the bender, in order to be able to flare it and install the new, standard (?!?) fitting. It was pretty difficult to be able to flare the end, bend it back to the same position, and be able to push the fitting into place over the new radius. It was a combination of bending over the fitting, and pulling it towards the flare all at the same time.
Take my word for it, it installed just as it did above, just without leaking this time. And watch out for the wolf spiders.
Fluid seems to always everywhere no matter how careful you are during bleedings, but pulling out a full master cylinder after pulling all the lines is never a good thing.
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