Friday, June 29, 2012

gearbox cradle, window follow

Two in one night?! Yes I'm feeling overly enthusiastic, but short entry. I decided it was bad form to start the car while I knew the transmission mount rubbed a little more than to my liking.






Trimmed as needed.

Also, see below for the  additional window I trimmed into the transmission car side mount for the same reason as stated above.




Once the pressure was completely relieved from the speedo sensor, the transmission settled down perfectly and doesn't even touch on the driver's side anymore. No window needed.


Thursday, June 28, 2012

wiring 2o1

I spent several hours last night making another post, and here we are a few states away, and still nothing. This is the second post I've lost and it is extremely frustrating. Previously I was able to make very good use of the cache function in firefox, but not this time. I'm not making any promises it's as witty as the first, but it actually may make more sense being written in an airport during a layover than at 3am waiting for a flight that I ended up missing.




I recently uploaded 5o2 photos over 19 albums and had to upgrade to google+ in the process. I ran out of room in my picasa account if you can believe it. I had the option of paying 2.49 a month for 25 gigs, up from the free 1. After some late night research I discovered that, in theory, the plus would allow me to upload unlimited photo's less than 2o48 pix on their longest side. If larger photos were uploaded it would go to my 1 GB limit, but once at the limit any uploaded would simply be re-sized automatically to the 2o48 pix limit.

I don't know if it's because I'm not uploading "into google+" (whatever that actually means) and still using picasa, or because I'm using the picasa web program from my mac and not the website directly, but I'm again limited to 8oo pix photos. I guess at least it's not like before when I couldn't upload any and the internet told me it needed money. Maybe it's because I'm already at my overall storage limit and all photos are also over the individual size limit and it takes time for google+ to update/sort/re-size. I'll look into it. Either way I was able to upload and sort a good portion of the recent pictures, covering work until about May. I don't care if it doesn't make sense that I could upload another few hundred at full size beyond my limit, had trouble, reset, and was able to complete the batch only to end up stuck in an entirely different hole. It's true.









Anyone who knows me knows I don't like wiring. It's not that I can't do it. Simply wiring a car to run results in less than desirable aesthetics and sometimes functionality. A full re-wire is a large job and I did not want to begin this in the 28o due to the amount of rust in the shell itself. This was actually one of the reasons I waited until now to re-wire the car. If my goal was to have something reliable, rust AND wiring needed to be addressed.

Considering all the time and effort it would take to re-wire the car, I still chose to re-install the old wiring harness as-is in the 24o for several reasons. After a year in storage, the labels left something to be desired, and there were bad connections and knots everywhere. Getting this sorted, however, would be less of a pain than starting from scratch. Not to mention I really wanted to hear the engine turn over.




 
You almost have to make a test wiring harness in order to get all the paths, mounting locations, connections, and lengths correct for your final, good looking harness. If I were to try to start over, I would be going backwards and at best would end up with something marginally better than what I had, and still want to go back and re-do things. This way I would be able to test the engine after a year of moving around, get the paths mapped out for the wires, and have a layout to start from.

I promise here and now that I will not drive this car long term with the harness in this state. I do not want to continue to warn passengers not to pull wires when they get in and out. I do not like replacing switches that act more like fuses, replace wires that have melted, or re-tape connects that should be soldered and heat wrapped in the middle of a ride. That, and I really don't want to have to re-do all the research that went into the wiring harness in the first place, trying to determine all the pinout maps, sensor locations, and many other tap-ins and grounds that have to be re-run from the engine harness.





No. I want a reliable car, and the wiring is a big part of this. If I was going to put effort into a nice, harness, it would be as meticulous as everything else thus far on this 24o. I also did not want to repeat work, or do work I knew would need to be redone, yet again, so the decision was made to wire the old harness in it's entirety.



One thing I did notice after reviewing some internal relay switch schematics was that I think my power/sender wires may be connected backwards. I still haven't tested this as the car ran, but it would explain why my switches were shorting, blowing outright, and in some cases as stated previously, melting. Yes, melting. Half of them almost immediately lost the led light that shows that they are on. If the harness was backwards it would still work, but the relays and their internal switch would effectively not be active, the switches taking the brunt of the electrical force. I'll look into this as well.




For now the battery was rested on the transmission tunnel for easy access, but in the future it will obviously be elsewhere. Keep an eye out, I promise that's going to be covered in detail somewhere in the next 2o posts.



It's difficult to take pictures of success sometimes, like turning over an engine, or something working for the first time. Wiring can be the same way, but here's a shot of the greddy 6o mm metric gauges wired and lit up like a christmas tree. You may also be able to catch the profecB light up high boost, ready and waiting.




Monday, June 25, 2012

oil returns

When pulling the engine out of the 28o z over a year ago now, I somehow banged the lower fitting on the steering shaft and it broke. 35$ mistake. It is possible that the oil line actually ran around and below the steering shaft and I simply forgot to remove during the install, but that's neither here nor there.








I bought the line into the kitchen for further inspection. At some point I'm going to need to replace this cover, probably sooner rather than later, but with starting the engine impending (at the time), I simply fixed the fitting and re-installed.




New replacement. -1o an, 45* aeroquip socketless hose end, anodized black. Very similar to the fuel lines minus the disassembly, I placed the damaged fitting into the -an jaws and secured the vice.




Ouch.




This is why I bought the set of -an wrenches. 






The outside of the line was fairly corroded.







After cleaning it up it was ready to be installed into the new fitting, without any guide tools or re-cutting, or much blood for that matter.








Old v new fitting with different internal port style. The new aeroquip seemed to be a much better design for various reasons.



Slip, or push and yell and squeeze and shimmy, the stainless steel line into the new outer hose fitting making sure it fully seats on the inside.





Setup the line again in the vice/jaws on the kitchen counter, not forgetting to mark the line so that you can tell if it pushes out during installation.





For some odd reason the -1o an wrench fit over the -an side of the fitting, but not the inner line side. 




As it turns out, the -12 was too big. This was mildly frustrating as I don't remember -11 even being an option in any kit. Either way, I was VERY careful with an adjustable wrench. If you tighten it slowly it'll work just fine, just try to limit the amount of slip and the number of times you have to reset the wrench to avoid marking your recently purchased expensive fitting.





Final product.






More close ups of the old fitting and all the corrosion. I'm glad it broke.



Run downstairs and install, turbo side first.



The oil lines and fitting welded to a bung threaded for the rb block came with my manifold and downpipe set several years ago. Still fits great.




Someone remind me to disconnect the oil return line next time I have to pull the engine. Please.