Depending on how the front coils are rotated, the tire will rub enough to not allow the wheel to turn while I'm pushing it. I found this out last week while trying to clean the garage. I was only able to push the car only 1/2 way out under the upstairs deck before the coils turned and thus was only able to take pics of it almost outside. It happens. Either way, not only is the inner part of the tire sometimes rubbing against the coils, so is the forward/aft at full turning lock when the tire is at full droop. It touches on the forward side while at it's sitting at it's potential ride height, a little less violently, but also barely clears the aft tc bar in this state.
Compared to the rear, there is a little bit more room between the outside tire face and the fender line without spacers, not pictured. I bought some 12 mm washers and put a few on there to test out potential spacer thickness. anything larger than o.43o" or so and I can barely get the lug nuts on to test out turning and fitment on the ground. After converting to metric, a 1o mm spacer should do pretty good. It'll bring out the wheel to just inboard of the fender, it even touches the inside lip a bit but that may be bent out of the way later - by my doing, or the tire's. In this position it looks like the rear and turning radius, amazingly enough, clears the fender.
The forward side still touches at full lock, but barely. When using 15mm spacers, which was difficult to test with just me holding the wheel on and turning it by hand because I couldn't put the lug nuts over the stock length studs, the forward side touched by the difference in runout of the wheel while sitting over the non-calibrated washers I was using as spacers. I could not test fender fitmet on the ground due to not being able to install the lug nuts, but based on what the 1o mm setup looked like I assumed it would stick out too far and hit the outside fender under coil compression, as well as the forward fender under turning. Since it looks the same at 1o mm as the rear, I assumed it would look different enough at 15 mm to be noticeable, but then again I'm picky. On the forward side it is actually touching on a thin flange at the bottom of the wheel well engine frame. It would be very minor to scallop this area if required.
The next selection is hubcentric or not and double lug nuts or not. At 1o mm, or even 15 mm for that matter, the stock studs would stick out from the new wheel mounting face of the spacer even though the nuts that they come with are recessed. Unless they come with smaller studs which you have to switch with your stock ones, negating the awesomeness of not having to remove them in the first place, then you would have to cut them flush. I'd rather not get into either of these options, not to mention the straight through design at that thickness is just better. I'm all for less adapter links. Based on online searches, my front hub od may already fit to my wheel's id, meaning no hubcentric ring or spacer would be required for balancing purposes, not that it would even fit for that matter. I may need rings in the rear but I will verify measurements later.
Sorry for all the cellphone pics, kk took the camera when she bailed. Note: photos were taken with 1o mm spacer equilivent and full negative camber angle allowed by the adjustment plates.
